How can I make a zipper less...wavy?

[Serika]

Alright, I JUST NOW pinned and hand sewed a zipper onto the costume I'm wearing on Saturday (had to handsew because the machine resulted in me looking very pregnant in what should be a form-fitting body suit type-thing), and I'm having some problems with it.  I doubt I'll be redoing anything completely (unless suggestions sound...simple enough), but if I remake this better in the future, which I can easily see, I want to hear your suggestions. 

I'm pretty inexperienced.  This is my third zipper, so I'm kinda getting the hang of it.  The first wasn't disastrous though it could definitely use work, and the second was marvelous (heehee).  This time I'm using stretchy fabric with a not-so stretchy zipper, which could be the problem... But I'm wanting to know what I can do to keep my zipper from making me look very wavy from the side. 

Suggestions, experienced cosplay veterans? 8D (and sorry for all the run-on sentences...bad habit.)

[Sayda]

if you can use a machine, I can help you with it. basically, where the zipper is, make a stitch where the zipper is going to be, stitching the fabrics together where the zipper will be, and then press it flat. place the zipper teeth directly underneath the stitch and pin it. Stitch along the edges of the teeth, going around the bottom of the zipper and back up the other side. Than take out the original stitch holding the two pieces of fabric together to unzip and sip the zipper.
for handsowing, I'm not quite sure but I'd be sure not to stretch the fabric when you're sowing on the zipper
hope this helps :]

[veraca]

Hmm that makes sense.. If there's too much fabric resting on the body from the pattern (think zip up hoody) or if the fabric's been stretched, odds are it'll bunch and make you get that puffy look from the side.

[Serika]

if you can use a machine, I can help you with it. basically, where the zipper is, make a stitch where the zipper is going to be, stitching the fabrics together where the zipper will be, and then press it flat. place the zipper teeth directly underneath the stitch and pin it. Stitch along the edges of the teeth, going around the bottom of the zipper and back up the other side. Than take out the original stitch holding the two pieces of fabric together to unzip and sip the zipper.
for handsowing, I'm not quite sure but I'd be sure not to stretch the fabric when you're sowing on the zipper
hope this helps :]

If I understand you correctly, do you mean I should sew sort of a stay-stitch in place on the fabric to keep it from stretching, then sew the zipper pretty much normally, and then take out the stay-stitch?

[pinkrandomattack]

a couple of things.

im going to go out on a limb here and assume that youre using a "invisible" zipper.

if this is the case there are a few things you can do to smooth it out.
1. iron it first, i know this sounds silly, but invisible zippers are designed to go in...backwards...kinda, they curl over and youre supposed to put them in in such a way that you cant see any stitching when its done, kinda like an upsidedown cake. you CAN put them in normally, but it kinda defeatly the point of buying an invisible zipper in the first place. either way you plan on putting it in, iron the curl "out" first (it would never come completely out, but it helps to relax  it)

2. There is such a thing as an invisible zipper foot.  they make them for most machines i think and only cost about 6 bucks. (i would still adhere to step 1).

3. if you dont have a zipper foot you pretty much NEED to put it in by hand. which really isnt as much of a pain as you might think as long at you backstitch the whole thing. but that really helps with buckling. i find this to be true with things other than zippers too, like kimono collars or any kind of bias tape, some things just trun out better when you have a better feeling of the fabric.


does that make sence?

[Runa]

If it's wavy, then that means that the knit fabric stretched while you were applying it. (and as soon as you let go of it, SPROING it went back to its original length - resulting in waves).

First Cut 2 1" wide by <zipper length + 1"> pieces of fusible interfacing and fuse them along the wrong side of each of the pieces of fabric where you're sewing the zipper to. This effectively prevents the fabric from stretching while applying the zipper.
Next, baste the zipper opening closed and press the seam allowances into their final positions. Make sure everything is straight and even.
Finally, place the zipper over the basted opening and sew in place. You may also consider basting the zipper in by hand prior to sewing it in by machine.
Hand stitching the zipper will provide more accuracy and control than machine stitching because the needle movement is fully controlled by you and you can get your hands around the fabric in ways that's not possible when you are using the machine.